“The diamond has always been esteemed the rarest stone, and the most precious of all: among the ancients, it was called the stone of reconciliation.” – Lewis Vertoman

The question of when/where/how diamonds were discovered and when/how people started making cut and polished diamonds have some fascinating explanations.

Discovery of diamonds: The first diamonds have been known to be discovered in India around the 4th Century BC. The ancient Indian literature named ‘Arthashastra’ has a clear manifestation of diamonds being considered as sacred stones with magical and spiritual powers.

Owing to this, they were used in loose, uncut and unpolished form for trading purposes only.  Although its use in making jewellery has not been dated exactly, the idea to use them for this purpose actually stems from India. (Source)

Origin of diamond cutting: Diamond cutting has a multi-core and open-ended history. It can be traced back to the 13th century when people first realized that diamonds can also be cut into different shapes or polished to improve their appearance with the optical effect. 

Initially both the cutting and polishing were very superficial and conformed more or less to its natural shape. Let’s see the history of each diamond in detail.

History of Diamond Cuts: 

1. Point Cut:

As already stated, up to the 14th century, the diamonds were cut surrounding its natural shape (Octahedral – meaning 8 sided), in Point Cut.

Till the early 14th century, Point Cut was referred to as the slight polishing done with the diamond dust of this octahedral stone. This process made them look dark and dull.

But in the late 14th century, the process called cleaving was established in which a chisel was placed on the diamond and hard-pressed with a mallet, contouring its natural cleavage to create the perfect Point Cut.

2. Table Cut:

In the mid 15th century, the process called bruting was invented and the octahedron then transformed into the Table Cut by removing one of its vertices, creating a flat surface called the Table. This surface, even now, is referred to as a diamond’s Table. 

Later the concept of faceting also emerged and the Table Cut diamonds also started having a culet. But the diamond’s brilliance was not yet achieved till then as the diamonds appeared dull.

3. Single Cut:

Adding more facets to Table Cut, the ‘Single Cut’ was born around the 16th century. This Single Cut diamond had 18 facets but a flat culet. This cut is used even today for very small-sized stones in which the full Brilliant Cut is not possible.

After this, various cuts started coming into existence by adding more facets in the Single Cut. They were named after the people who first carved them. The faceting was done in such a way that it can increase the reflection of light in the stone and produce the maximum optical effect.

4. Rose Cut:

Throughout the 16th century, the 24 facet Rose Cut was very popular. Diamonds cut in a way to form rosettes (small diamonds grouped to form a large rose), with a flat bottom and triangular facets into the crown (making a dome-shaped top).

5. Mazarin Cut:

With the introduction of sawing in the 17th century, diamond cutting took a huge leap forward with the first-ever Brilliant Cut.

The first brilliant-cut diamond was called Mazarin’s Cut, named after its designer, Cardinal Jules Mazarin. The Mazarin cut had 17 facets on the crown, double than the facets of the Single Cut diamond (8 facets on the crown). 

Though they were brilliant-cut diamonds, their brilliance was much different than what we see today. First of all, the stones were shaped in rounded squares/rectangles compared to modern circular ones. Also, the facets of these diamonds were not symmetrical, but they were similar to modern triangular-shaped facets in both the crown and pavilion.

6. Old-Mine Cut:

In the early 18th century, the diamond faceting went on a whole new level with an increased number of facets to 58 in the old-mine cut. 

It had the same number of facets as a modern round Brilliant Cut diamond. But the shape of the Old-Mine Cut diamond was square with rounded corners. Also, this cut had a higher crown angle, smaller table and a larger culet  than the modern round Brilliant Cut diamond.

The reason for this distinctive cutting style was to stick closer to the natural shape of the diamond (octahedral) and also to retain the maximum weight from the rough stone.

7. Old-European Cut:

By the end of the 18th century the Old Mine Cuts eventually evolved into the Old European Cut with a more rounded shape and distinct facet positioning.

The Old European Cut also had 58 facets but with a smaller table, higher crown angle, and a larger culet than the modern round brilliant cut

That’s why the Old European Cut can not concentrate the brilliance straight at the top and radiates it from the sides of the diamond, which creates a dome effect and makes them less brilliant than the modern round Brilliant Cut diamonds.

Brilliance Achieved:

In 1919, the book named Diamond Design was launched by Marcel Tolkowsk, in which he developed a mathematical formula to cut the diamond in a way that balances the amount of brilliance and dispersion. 

He analyzed diamond brilliance, considering the spectral hues generated due to the reflection of the white light from the diamond. His calculations served as the model for the modern round Brilliant Cut diamonds.

Modern Fancy Cuts:

1. Oval-Cut:

The modern Oval Cut is nothing but a modified form of brilliant cut with the elongated crown having 58 facets. You might be surprised to know that the legendary Koh-i-Noor diamond is an Oval Cut diamond.

2. Trillion Cut:

The trillion cut is an unconventional triangular form of the Brilliant Cut with 31 facets on its crown having either pointed or rounded edges. The trillion cut is often used in other gemstones more than in the diamonds.

3. Radiant Cut:

Radiant Cut is a Square-shaped Brilliant Cut with 70 facets on its crown.

4. Princess-Cut:

The modern Princess Cut diamond is either Square-shaped or slightly rectangular. It is not a variation of the Radiant Cut as it has a different facet pattern than Radiant Cut.

Unique Diamond Cuts, You Will Only Find at HK:

✦ 8 Pel Heart & Arrow

✦ 57 Facet Princess Cut 

✦ 75 Facet Brilliant Round Cut 

✦ HK Company Logo Shape

✦ Kisna Logo Shape

✦ 89 Facet Brilliant Round Cut 

✦ Triangle Ross Cut

Apart from this, we also provide personalized and custom shaped diamonds as per the customer requirements. 

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